When making food by hand to sell direct to the public, one thing you will almost certainly argue about with yourself – and possibly with friends and family too – is pricing. Despite Britain being a place where we idolise chefs, buy recipe books in bulk, sit glued to food-themed TV, and like to fantasise about the artisan food producer life, most people still buy most of their food from supermarkets. And supermarkets are very much a product of the post-World War 2, post-rationing hunger for cheapness and plenty, quantity over quality.
Any artisan food producer has to compete with this.
Einat Chalmers runs Mamoosh1 out of small bakery within an industrial in Newhaven, on the East Sussex coast. Her main product is pitta2 bread. She sells four for £2. This seems like a bargain to me, but then I’m a middle-class stereotype who tries to eschew industrial food. People, even friends, criticised my prices when I sold Italian biscuits on the market, but my margins were very narrow, and the time it takes to handmake real food is a world away from the time it takes for a factory to spit out industrial food.
Einat has some professional kit but is essentially making her pitta by hand: dividing the dough, shaping the balls, feeding a small dough roller, laying them on trays to prove, then dropping them onto her new addition: a proper pitta oven. Then removing them by hand too. With a supermarket’s pitta, the dough is almost certainly not touched by hand at all as it moves through an automated production process in a factory, not a bakery.
And frankly supermarket pitta tastes like cardboard; a conclusion I reached years ago and one that’s affirmed every time I eat Einat’s bread. Never mind that many will find the result indigestible; not because they can’t eat wheat, but because industrial bread doughs simply aren’t proved for long enough.
Einat, who grew up in the north of Israel close to Lebanon, sells her delicious pitta on the markets in Lewes. They’re a key part of my family’s diet these days. My fussy son calls it “pocket bread” and it’s a good way to get him to eat something filling. Einat also makes brioche buns to supply The Pig and Jacket, who do pulled pork and hog roast, and croissants and Danish, which she sells at the smaller market in Newhaven. She says she turns out up to around 250 brioche buns and 900 pitta a week but is gradually expanding. The latter production is helped by that pitta oven.
I’ve never seen one before but it’s a great bit of kit, gas elements heat a large rotating disc of cast iron from below, while other flames brown the pittas from above. Einat says she was encouraged to invest in one by her restaurateur father in Israel, and when I visited the bakery I got a great sense of its efficacy. It heats to about 450-500C (a temperature similar to that found in a wood-fired pizza oven) in about 10 minutes. About a dozen pittas can fit on the disc and the rotation takes about a minute. The results are great: pocketed but puffy and tender, an entirely different animal to the abovementioned cardboard pittas more familiar to British supermarket shoppers. They may cost about 50p for six, but to my mind that’s a false economy: not only are they poor quality in terms of ingredients and production process, they’re also barely edible for anyone who’s even vaguely discerning about the bread they eat.
Einat, who trained as a chef at the French Culinary Institute and interned in bakeries in New York in the late 1990s, taught herself sourdough and pitta at home. She’s lived in Sussex with her Scottish husband for about 15 years and worked on and off for Brighton’s Real Patisserie before starting her pitta business. I think she’s really onto something. I urge anyone who’s in Lewes for the food markets to check out her pitta, they’re one of those foods that very tellingly highlights the difference between real, handmade products and industrial crap. One of those products that, in a mouthful, qualifies and justifies the price differences3.
Mamoosh pittas are available at the Friday morning food market, in the Lewes Market Tower, from Talicious falafel stall, or you can get them straight from Einat’s Mamoosh stall at the Lewes farmers market on the first and third Saturday of every month. I’m eating some now with some of my hummus as I hit “Publish”.
Mamoosh pittas and other products are available (as of April 2017):
At the Lewes Farmers Market, morning of first and third Saturday of the month, the Precinct, High Street, Lewes BN7 2AN, where Einat has a stall.
At the Lewes Food Market, every Friday morning at the Market Tower, BN7 2NB.
At the Hillcrest Country Market, every Thursday morning, the Hillcrest Centre, Newhaven BN9 9LH.
1 Einat explains the name thus: “Mamoosh comes from the word mummy (mother), probably introduced by the Polish Jews and become part of the Hebrew slang. “e use it mainly as a slang for sweetie, darling, honey, dear.”
2 In English pitta or pita is borrowed from the modern Greek πίτα. As it’s a transliteration, presumably there are arguments for both spellings. Indeed, the Greek word can also be translated as pie or cake. Older etymology of the word is contested so can’t help.
3 This is a tangent but just to preemptively respond to any criticism that I’m writing simply from a naive middle-class position, here’s a little more food for thought. Many people say that only the better-off can eat what I call real foods, and the poorer are dependent on cheap industrial produce, often frozen or in the form of ready meals, from budget supermarkets etc. This is obviously a complex issue but a story I read in the i newspaper on 2 March seemed to confirm something I’ve long thought – if you base your diet on fresh veg, grains, pulses, don’t expect red meat with every meal and don’t throw away food (itself an enormous issue, and one of the things that will bring about the downfall of our society), you can eat more affordably.
The article quotes from a report by the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA), “the UK’s original free-market think-tank”, and its author says, “A diet of muesli, rice, white meat, fruit and vegetables is much cheaper than a diet of Coco Pops, ready meals, red meat, sugary drinks and fast food. The idea that poor nutrition is caused by the high cost of healthy food is simply wrong.” The IEA is not a body I know well, and it’s of neoliberal disposition and I’ve not read the original report, so I’m slightly wary of quoting from it.
15 responses to “Mamoosh pittas and the question of artisan food”
Daniel – I agree these pittas are fantastic. Also the hummus and schug (garlic and coriander dip) are amazing. Einat is also at the Shoreham- by-Sea market on the second Saturday each month.
Hi Mike. Good to know. Will have to get some schug next time.
I’ve always wondered the same with the “real” vs industrial foods argument. I suspect it’s more about not having the tools & education, let alone palette, to move from one food type to another. It’s hard moving from strong tasting sweet and salty foods to something that tastes more bland. It can take years to er…train(?) children to enjoy a wide range of tastes, particulary if they have strong taste receptors or have only been exposed to industrially produced food. For that reason trying to get adults, who have been used to nothing else is going to be a nightmare without a massive amount of effort on their part.
The main issue is that for some their relationship with food has broken down, and indeed it takes strong parenting to keep pushing the good stuff without constant frustration! And if the parent doesn’t see the value in food it’s a flippin nightmare.
Enough of the miserable, I want some of those pitas / pittas.
You’re also competing with the massive marketing of industrial and junk foods, and ensuing addiction – to the high sugar and salt content. Here in Britain I think our whole society’s relationship with food broke down, as a result of enclosures, rapid industrialisation and urbanisation, two wars and rationing.
Indeed. And you probably can’t fix it without society breaking down first. Not that I’m counting down the days to the apocalypse or anything.
I commented on a Facebook post the other day after overhearing a someone saying they would go to MacDonalds as at least they knew the food was clean there. Jeez.
Another thought provoking and inspired article Dan! At least Carla Tomasi produces the odd good pita for us folk around here. We called it pocket bread as kids!
Yes, it’s not really the most origina nickname!
I was in Newhaven today and wish I’d known about this secret place and the lovely bread… I went and bought some plaice instead from the fishmongers. But very pleased to know that Newhaven has such a great spirit and some proper wholesome bread. And lots of great info here, thank you.
Great to be able to buy fish straight off the boats though. I don’t think Einat has an outlet in Newhaven that’s open every day, it’s just where her bakery is. I’ll find out and add an update.
I think she once sold sourdough and my mum used to buy it from her direct but she’s since stopped it…It was amazing stuff. Sophie
She is limited by being a one person unit, with a limited market. In West London, there are a multitude of small North African/Afghani/Turkish bakeries springing up, offering handmade bread. Fresh pita straight off the oven retails at 3 for £1, Bread is never more a 1 hour old. Quality is very good. Often these bakeries are within other retail shops and usually 1 or 2 person units.
Even with costs of having a shop, prices are keen due to competition.
Before my wedding, when we had a kind of Middle Eastern buffet, we bought a load of flatbreads from a West London Arabic bakery. But West London is a very different proposition to Sussex.
Oh, and what a buffet 😉
It was alright…