Just to be clear: this was Fran’s project. But as I’m enjoying eating it, she’s given me permission to cover it.
For those who’ve never encountered it, Herman cake, or friendship cake, is a type of apple cake that features a starter not unlike a sourdough. The principle is that you feed up the starter, then split it and pass containers of sludge onto your friends for them to then follow the recipe, and in turn pass sludge onto their friends.
Fran was given it by our friend Martina, another parent at our kids’ school. Seeing as I’m the avid baker of the household, I’m somewhat bemused she didn’t offer it to me. But as I was in thick of home-schooling our five year old and seven year old at that point, nurturing a pot of seething yeasts and lactobacilli as well was possibly a bridge too far for me.
The Herman cake starter isn’t strictly a sourdough. Or not necessarily. I’ve seen recipes online where people create the starter not by awaiting the gentle cascade of natural yeasts from the atmosphere but by making a batter with flour, milk, sugar, water and commercial yeast. Over time, however, this mix is fed (with more flour and sugar) and will take on naturally occurring yeasts and bacteria, and will give off that beery smell familiar to those who cultivate stricter natural leavens.
This type of cake is inspired by an older Amish tradition, Amish friendship bread, which itself would have originally used a true natural sourdough starter. Indeed, all breads and leavened baked goods did before the controlled cultivation and commercial sale of baker’s yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, in the second half of the 19th century following the Louis Pasteur’s advances in the understanding of microbiology.
A few notes:
1. Don’t refrigerate the starter. Just keep the sludge in a bowl, covered loosely with a clean cloth, at room temperature.
2. The final cake ingredients do include baking powder, which seems odd considering you’re using a sourdough-like starter – ie a leaven. But the result is delicious, so I’m not quibbling.
3. The recipe suggests cooking apples, but Fran used desert apples and they worked well. (Gala I believe.)
4. The original recipe also included raisins, but cooked raisins are a sure way to ruin a cake. They’re the devil’s work, like sultanas in the curries we used to have at primary school in the 1970s. Of course, if you like dried fruits in cakes, go ahead and add some.
5. You can add a streusel topping. My mum used to make us a streusel cake when I was a kid, so I’ve taken that element from her old Katie Stewart recipe.
6. It’s quite a big cake. Fran made it in a 23x23cm square tin. I can’t see any reason why you can’t bake it in a round tin, bundt tin or deep roasting pan, depending on what you’ve got at your disposal.
7. I would love to know how the microbiology of a Herman starter differs from that of a classic sourdough (which of course varies a lot too). There is a Herman Project underway looking at the microbial characteristics of different sourdoughs. It’s discussed here, but the link from this MIT page is dead, so I don’t know if it looks at these cake starters.
8. When Fran divided up the Herman starter, each quarter weighed around 300g.
9. I’ve no idea why it’s called Herman. Apparently, “Herman” is an affectionate name for any sourdough starter, though I’ve not heard that before. Presumably in America. Though again, I’ve no idea why that particular name was chosen.
So, assuming a friend passes you a container of sludge, here’s the recipe.
1. The day you receive the sludge is day 1. Stir each day and on day 4 add 140g plain flour, 200g caster sugar and 225g of full-fat milk.
2. Stir each day on days 5 to 9, then add 140g plain flour, 200g caster sugar and 225g of full-fat milk on day 9.
3. Weigh the mixture then divide into four equal portions. Give three containers of sludge away to friends.
4. Keep your quarter for one more day, then you’re ready to make the cake on day 10.
300g Herman starter
225g caster sugar
300g plain flour
12g baking powder
3g fine sea salt
155g cooking oil (sunflower or vegetable [ie rapeseed, aka canola] good)
2 medium eggs (ie around 115g, without shells)
10g vanilla essence
2 medium apples, cut into chunks
12g ground cinnamon
Optional streusel topping
50g self-raising flour
100g soft brown sugar
50g butter, melted
1. Grease a 23cm square tin and line with baking parchment.
2. Preheat your oven to 170C.
3. Simply combine all the ingredients and pour into the prepared tin.
4. To make the optional streusel, combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl and mix through the melted butter with a fork. Sprinkle this onto the cake batter.
5. Bake for around an hour, until a skewer comes out clean (-ish). If it’s not baked enough but the top is browning, cover with foil and keep baking.
6. Cool on a wire rack.
7. Enjoy. Or not if you’re a five year old who refuses to eat the cooked apple.
11 responses to “Fran’s Herman cake”
This is ace and I’m excited to get going with it! But I’m still left really wondering why Herman? Tho it’s a perfect name!
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Indeed. Internet searches have failed to produce an answer. Need to ask a German baker. Though I get the impression “Herman” is a nickname American bakers use for their sourdough starters.
Hello German here, the Hermann dough became popular around here in the late 70s along with the ecological movement and it used to be passed on among friends and acquantances. I clearly remember it from my childhood. Who exactly came up with that name is lost in history. It’s a sourdough made from wheat flour, so I don’t think the name is used for sourdough in general.
Well, I would very much enjoy trying this – and I so remember my Katie Stewart streusel cakes. And I love cooked apples, so it’s a winner all round as far as I am concerned.
One of these days….
I think a certain little girl would prefer the straight streusel cake as she rejected the apple in this one. I’ve got the Katie Stewart recipe and have been meaning to make it for ages.
How dare you sir…the sultanas in the school curries, along with ‘traditional’ chips were a culinary oasis of hope in an otherwise bleak nutritional week. 😁
Spam fritters were also a quality part of my 70s school dinners. I remember carving a CND sign in one and filling it with baked beans (a good friend’s parents were very active in CND at the time). Funny though, in some ways school dinners helped define my adult food tastes – I just loved so many of the stodgy puddings, notably massive tray bake vanilla spoonges, covered with a layer of jam and a sprinkling of desiccated coconut, and served with custard. Still love stodgy (obviously).
There you go..that could possibly have the very first ‘spam’ message ☺️
As part of a bet a few years ago on a woodland campsite I procured some spam and made some breakfast fritters with them for my friend’s nieces and nephews…..to her disgust they absolutely loved them ! …Needless to say the experiment / wager was not repeated.
Huge tray bake sponges with jam and desiccated coconut takes me right back there too Dan…..as we got older, we were trusted to cut it into portions and serve your fellow pupils at your …..your measuring and geometry skills tested at an early age.
Fran’s ‘Herman Cake’ is very close to a cake that the ward Frau used to make at a German hospital I used to work at….she used to leave the mix overnight in a bucket, which somewhat edge off the anticipation. She would instigate a ‘three line whip’ when proffering a slice. Our Sqn Ldr urged us to view it as a cooperative NATO gesture !
Fran’s cake looks far more appealing and appetising for sure.
Much as I love a starter or natural leaven, that hospital bucket image does turn the stomache somewhat Nick. Were the results nice? Or at least edible?